Product Overview
A KJT Cartridge Heater That Still Wears Its Ratings in the Steel
Condition
Unused, new old stock, clean and in excellent condition. Under the camera the stainless sheath shows a dull mill finish with faint mottling and slight darkening toward the closed end, and the stamped markings on the body are crisp and legible: a diamond KJT mark, CE, the part number KA13-02498/1, and the ratings 350W 230V with the code 85588. The two braided leads are cream with a red tracer, and the braid is slightly frayed at the cut ends with a wisp of bare conductor showing. Stock runs deep on this part, so the heater in these photos is representative of what is on the shelf and this listing sells each.
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Product Overview
This is a KJT cartridge heater, part number KA13-02498/1, with 350W 230V, the code 85588 and a CE mark stamped directly into the sheath alongside the maker's diamond logo. The body is stainless steel, nominally 1/4 inch in diameter, and against the inch ruler in the second photo the sheath measures approximately 4 inches overall. Two braided high-temperature lead wires exit the cold end; our records list them at 36 inches, and they are coiled in the photos rather than stretched out and measured. Working from the stamped ratings, 350 watts at 230 volts is about 1.5 amps and a nominal resistance near 151 ohms, which is the figure to expect on a meter across the two leads when the element is intact. Spread over the outside of a 1/4 by 4 inch sheath that is roughly 110 watts per square inch, and since the heated length of a cartridge heater is always shorter than its overall length, treat that number as a floor rather than a ceiling and give the heater a bore that can pull the heat away. Sheath alloy grade, heated length, cold-end length and the lead insulation temperature rating are not visible in the photos - not confirmed, verify against the datasheet before use.
Key Features
- Stamped 350W at 230V, with the code 85588 and a CE mark on the sheath
- Diamond KJT maker's mark and part number KA13-02498/1 stamped into the body
- Stainless steel sheath, nominally 1/4 inch diameter
- Approximately 4 inches long measured against the inch ruler in the photos
- Two braided high-temperature lead wires, listed at 36 inches, coiled in the photos
- About 1.5 amps and roughly 151 ohms nominal, calculated from the stamped ratings
- Unused new old stock, priced and sold each, with deep stock on hand
Applications
- A mold shop keeping 230V spares on hand for a hot runner manifold or a heated nozzle that takes a 1/4 by 4 inch cartridge
- A packaging line tech replacing the element in a bag sealer or impulse jaw running on 230V single phase
- A shop or lab builder heating an aluminum block, die or platen through a reamed 1/4 inch bore off a 230V supply
- A machine rebuilder pulling a burned-out heater of the same size and matching wattage and voltage instead of guessing at a substitute
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is stamped on this heater?
Two groups of marks, both shown close up in the photos. One reads 350W 230V 85588 with a CE mark. The other carries the diamond KJT logo, CE, and the part number KA13-02498/1. No other marks are visible in these photos, and no country of origin or date code appears in them - the frames show only two rotational aspects of a round sheath, so read that as what we can see rather than a complete inventory of the body.
Can I run it on 120 volts?
You can, but you will not get the rated heat. Power falls with the square of the voltage, so a 230V element on 120V puts out roughly 95 watts, a bit over a quarter of its rating, and it will heat slowly and top out cooler. That is a safe direction to be wrong in. Going the other way and pushing it past 230 volts is what kills cartridge heaters early.
What size hole does it need?
A snug one. Cartridge heaters shed their heat through the sheath into the surrounding metal, and an air gap traps that heat inside where it cooks the internal element. For a nominal 1/4 inch cartridge that means a reamed bore in the 0.250 to 0.252 inch range, clean and free of chips, deep enough that the heated portion is fully buried. A sloppy or shallow bore is the most common reason one of these fails long before its time.
How hot does the sheath get?
That depends on your bore, the mass you are heating and your control, not on the heater alone. The specific sheath temperature limit and the lead wire insulation rating are not visible in the photos and we have not tested it - not confirmed, verify against the datasheet before use. If you are running near the edge, put a thermocouple in the block and let the controller decide.
Why buy two or three of these here instead of a lot of fifty somewhere else?
Because you buy the count you actually need. One nozzle heater failed, buy one. Rebuilding a manifold with six bores, buy six and a spare. No minimum, no forced lot sitting in a drawer for the next ten years waiting for a second failure that may never come. Stock is deep on this KJT, the heater photographed is representative of what is on the shelf, and each one is priced and sold individually. Shipping is $8 flat rate, free once your order passes $28, and orders leave our Idaho warehouse the same or next business day.
Every cartridge heater lives or dies by the hole it goes into. Ream the bore, seat this stainless stick snug, and it will pour 350 watts into your block and keep doing it long after you have forgotten it is in there.
